Lawn care and sports field FAQs for South East Queensland

The feed that counts most goes on in early spring, as warm-season grass starts growing again, with a second in late summer or early autumn to repair summer wear. Hungry couch and kikuyu lawns can take lighter feeds in between. Slow-release fertiliser suits most home lawns because it feeds steadily without a flush of soft growth, and feeding just after coring gets it into the root zone. Lawn fertilising and our three fertilising tips.

Patches that spread fast in summer and autumn, with birds pecking at the lawn, often mean armyworm chewing the leaf or curl grubs eating the roots; if the turf peels back like loose carpet, it's grubs. Rings or blotches that show up in humid spells, or as nights turn cool and damp, can be fungal disease. Patches that stay dry after watering point to compacted or water-repellent soil. Each needs a different fix, so we find the cause first. Lawn grub treatment and lawn fungal diseases.

No one can honestly promise that. We identify the weeds, treat what's growing now with products that suit your grass type, and can put down a pre-emergent to hold back summer weeds before they come up. Some, like nutgrass and oxalis, often need a follow-up, and new seed keeps blowing in. The lasting answer is a thick, healthy lawn that leaves weeds less room. Lawn weed control and tips for tackling weeds.

Most lawn problems start in the soil, so it pays to know what's there. A lab soil test shows the pH and nutrient levels, tells you whether lime is needed, and stops you spending money on fertiliser the lawn can't use. Home lawns usually only need testing every few years, or before a renovation. Sports fields are best tested once a year. We explain the results in plain terms. Soil testing.

We don't mow. Our work is the turf health side: feeding, weed control, pest treatment and renovation. The regular lawn service is a program of feeding, weed control and pest checks every eight weeks, and it works best as follow-on care after a spring renovation, once the soil has been fixed. If you'd rather book work only when the lawn needs it, that's lawn maintenance.

Rugby league, rugby union, AFL, soccer, touch, cricket and athletics, including junior layouts. We use a GPS line marker, so corners are square, arcs and circles are true, and each re-mark goes down in the same position rather than drifting a little further off over the season. More on football field line marking and AFL and cricket ovals.

Once you know which codes you're running, how many fields you need and when trials or round one begin. Autumn and winter competitions are usually set out in February or March, the busiest weeks of the marking year, so it pays to get in touch between October and January. Booking early also leaves time to sort out post positions and any surface work the ground needs first. Sports field line marking.

Weekly or fortnightly for most fields. Line paint sits on the grass leaf rather than the soil, so each mow clips some of it off. Lines fade fastest in the early rounds, when couch is still growing quickly, and last longer through mid-winter. A seasonal contract sets the re-mark schedule around your fixtures and costs the whole season up front, so you're not chasing a line marker every week. Seasonal line marking contracts.

Yes. We mark running tracks, lane numbers and field event areas on grass ovals, and the course line, turning points and start and finish areas for cross-country. Many Queensland schools run their carnivals in Terms 2 and 3, the same months as winter football marking, so book as soon as the date is set. We usually mark a day or two before the event. School carnival line marking.