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Residential lawn services

Lawn fertilising in Brisbane

Lawn looking pale, yellow or thin even though you water it? Or you've tried fertiliser and got burnt stripes or not much change? We work out what your grass and soil are actually short of, then feed at the right rate and the right time of year.

Jobs from $220Free onsite check
Lawn care worker spraying a fine liquid mist over a green lawn with a hand-held spray wand
Signs you need it

Is your lawn hungry, or being fed the wrong way?

Warm-season grasses do a lot of growing through a South East Queensland summer, and clippings that go in the bin take nutrients with them. Heavy rain leaches more out of sandy soils, and where the pH is off, nutrients already in the soil get locked away from the roots. Over a season or two, the lawn runs short.

  • Pale, yellow-green colour across the lawn
  • Slow to bounce back after mowing, wear or a dry spell
  • Clover and other weeds filling in the thin patches
  • Colour comes back after a feed, then fades within weeks
  • Yellowing even though you fertilise regularly
  • Burnt stripes or patches left by a past feed

Yellowing isn't always hunger. Waterlogging, compaction, disease and lawn grubs can look much the same, which is why we diagnose before we feed. And while a thick, well-fed lawn leaves weeds fewer gaps to move into, feeding won't clear weeds that are already established. That's a separate job for weed control.

Clover and other broadleaf weeds mixed through lawn grass

Fed it, watered it, still looks tired?

We'll look at the grass, check the soil and work out whether it's hungry, compacted or something else before you spend more on fertiliser. Jobs from $220.

Soil testing first

Find out what the soil needs before feeding it

An all-purpose bag of lawn food assumes your soil is short of the same things as everyone else's. A soil test checks. It shows the pH and which nutrients are low or already plentiful, so the money goes on what the grass actually needs.

pH matters more than most people expect. When it's well outside the range lawn grasses like, nutrients already in the soil get locked up and more fertiliser does little. On acidic soil the right fix is often lime to bring the pH up, with less fertiliser rather than more.

Not every lawn needs a test. If yours has stopped responding to feeding, or the symptoms point to the soil, we'll recommend one before anything is spread. Read more about our soil testing service.

Taking a lawn soil sample with a probe and bag before choosing a fertiliser
When to fertilise

Feeding warm-season grasses through the year

Couch, kikuyu, buffalo and zoysia grow strongly from spring to autumn and slow right down in winter, so feeding is timed to the growing months. This pattern suits most lawns around Brisbane, Logan and the Gold Coast, and we adjust it for your grass and soil.

Spring

The feed that counts most. Feeding as the soil warms in late August and September fuels the new season's growth and helps the lawn thicken before summer. Spring is also renovation season, and feed spread straight after lawn aeration goes right down to the roots.

Summer

The grass grows hard and uses plenty, but heat and storms bring risks. Lighter or slower feeds work best, never on a lawn that's drought-stressed, and timed so a downpour doesn't wash them away.

Autumn

A feed in March or April helps the lawn recover from summer wear, build up reserves and hold its colour longer as the nights cool.

Winter

Growth slows right down. Where the soil stays mild near the coast, a light feed can help hold colour. Inland and in frost-prone spots, it's usually better to wait for spring.

Choosing the fertiliser

Slow-release, liquid or both?

There's no single best fertiliser. What matters is matching how quickly it releases to what the lawn needs right now.

Slow-release granular

The base most of our feeding is built on. The granules break down over several weeks, giving steady growth instead of a flush, with less risk of burn and less washed away by storms.

Liquid feeds

Absorbed through the leaf as well as the roots, so the colour improves within days. Useful for a quick lift or to correct a trace element shortfall such as iron. The response fades faster than granules, so liquids go on top of a slow-release base rather than replacing it.

Organic-based blends

Release nutrients slowly as soil life breaks them down, and add the organic matter that sandy or tired soils are short of. We often combine them with mineral fertilisers, which supply a precise dose of the main nutrients.

Our three-tip guide to lawn fertilisation explains what the numbers on the bag mean and how the release types differ.

Doing it properly

No burnt stripes, nothing down the drain

The product is rarely the problem; the application usually is. Too much in one spot scorches the grass. Too much overall forces soft, sappy growth, and whatever the lawn can't take up runs off into the stormwater and on to the creeks and the bay.

  • Measured rates, worked out from your lawn's area
  • Even spreading, with no doubled-up strips or missed bands
  • Applied when the soil is moist, not when the lawn is wilting in the heat
  • Paths and driveways swept so granules don't end up in the gutter
  • Timed around the forecast, so a storm doesn't wash it away
  • Clear notes on watering it in and when kids and pets can go back on

Feeding and watering work together. Our guide to getting the most from water and feed has tips for the weeks after.

Evenly green backyard lawn beside newly planted garden beds and a grassed slope
Cost

What does lawn fertilising cost?

Jobs start from $220. The price depends on the size of the lawn, what's being applied (slow-release granules, a liquid feed or a soil amendment such as lime), whether a soil test should come first, and whether the feed is part of a bigger job such as aeration or top dressing.

After the free onsite check you get a firm price before any work starts. If you'd rather not keep track of the timing yourself, feeding can also be built into a regular lawn service.

Why All Grass Solutions

A diagnosis, not just a bag of fertiliser

  • We find out why the lawn is struggling before recommending a feed
  • We explain what's wrong and lay out the work step by step
  • Feeding matched to your grass type, soil and the time of year
  • Our own crew and our own equipment
  • Family-run and based in Beenleigh, covering homes within 100 km

Managing an oval or playing field? See our turf fertiliser programs for sports fields.

How it works

Three steps to a better-fed lawn

  1. Free onsite check

    We look at the grass type, colour and density, check the soil and ask what has gone on the lawn recently.

  2. Clear plan and price

    You get what to apply, when and why, plus a firm price for the job.

  3. Feeding day

    We apply it at a measured rate, sweep any granules off hard surfaces and leave you notes on watering in.

Common questions

How much does lawn fertilising cost?
Jobs start from $220. The main things that move the price are the area, what goes down (granules, a liquid feed or lime) and whether a soil test comes first. Feeding on the same visit as aeration or top dressing saves a separate trip. You get a firm price after the free onsite check, before anything is spread.
When should I fertilise my lawn in Brisbane?
The key feed is in early spring, around September, as warm-season grasses start growing again. A second feed in late summer or early autumn repairs summer wear and sets the lawn up for the cooler months. Lighter feeds in between suit hungry grasses like kikuyu and couch. Avoid feeding a lawn that is drought-stressed or dormant.
How often should a lawn be fertilised?
For most home lawns in South East Queensland, three or four slow-release feeds between early spring and early autumn is about right. Kikuyu and couch are hungrier than zoysia and buffalo, sandy soils need smaller and more frequent feeds, and a lawn you're thickening up after a renovation may need more in its first season.
How soon will I see a difference?
In the growing season, a liquid feed usually shows in the colour within a week, and a slow-release granular feed within two or three weeks of being watered in. In cool weather it takes longer. If a lawn that has been fed properly still hasn't changed after a month or so, something else is holding it back, such as compaction, grubs or the soil pH, and that's what we look for at the onsite check.
Can fertiliser burn my lawn?
Yes. Burn usually comes from too much fast-release nitrogen, doubled-up strips where spreading passes overlap, or feeding a lawn that's dry and heat-stressed. Granules left sitting on the leaf in hot weather can also scorch it, which is why they need watering in. If you already have burnt patches, we can tell you whether they'll grow back on their own or need repair.
Do I need a soil test before fertilising?
Not every time, but it's worth doing if the lawn hasn't responded to feeding, is yellowing despite good care, or has never been tested. A test shows the pH and which nutrients are short, so you don't pay for ones the soil already has plenty of. More about soil testing.
Free onsite check

Book a free onsite check

We'll come out, look at the grass and the soil underneath, and tell you straight what's going on and what it'll take to fix. No charge, no pressure.

  • Jobs from $220
  • Homes within 100 km of Beenleigh
  • Sports fields across South East QLD and Northern NSW

Jobs start from $220. We'll call you back during office hours.

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